12/21/2012

A Letter to My Precious Ones...


Dear Tato and Allie,
As a mother, there is nothing I want more than to give you the world, to watch as you squeal with delight at all the wonderment that life has to offer. But it is not without difficulties and a heavy heart as your dad and I decide to set this family on this amazing path. While the world is filled with indescribable beauty that stirs the chambers of the heart, it is not without evils that lashes out at innocent souls. My heart becomes heavily burdened thinking of the many ugly faces of evil, despair and destruction you may witness in your lifetime. I cringe at the idea of exposing you to such elements of life. But I will never forgive myself if I allowed you, or any of us to shy away from life, give up on having a life for fear of the unknown and uncertainties. In addition, for less selfish reasons than you think, I will not shy away from my dreams of traveling the world. The dreamer in me must continue to dream in order to give you even bigger dreams. The dream chaser in me must continue to chase after that dream in order to teach you to be resilient.  So mark my words kids. For you I will be brave. I will be resilient. I will give you the world!

In the case that you won't remember a thing from our travels when you grow up, here I offer my most treasured wisdom: 

  • Life is lived. It's not watched on television or read in books.
  • Believe in the infinite possibilities the world has to offer. The world is your limit.
  • Never stop dreaming.
  • Experience the magic and the mysteries that exists in the world. See it with your eyes. Feel it with your heart.
  • Always have compassion.
  • Learn from the people you have encountered, the cultures you have been exposed to, the places you have been to. 
  • Last but not least, remember that: life is a canvas, so fill it up!
As for now, eat well and sleep tight my little ones, for you will need all your strength to receive the gift your dad and I will give you: the gift of travel; an admission into a world brimming with dreams, marvel, and miracles.

10/23/2012

Hong Kong with Kids


While Hong Kong may be one of the top foreigner friendly cities to visit in Asia, it doesn't come off as a child friendly city for a family vacation. This crowded, fast paced city can be daunting for less experienced travelers with or without kids. Herding and towing two kids under age four through Hong Kong's Central metro station during rush hour definitely requires much tolerance, patience and strength. At first I cringed at the idea of taking 2 kids under 4 to this crowded city; in fear that it wouldn't be a kid friendly place. Once again, I was proven wrong.

Hong Kong is a city I've visited at least a dozen times within the last five years. But these frequent weekend trips always consisted of running errands, visiting relatives, occasionally taking the kids to Disneyland, and if time allows, a few hours of shopping in Harbour city. I have never once took the time to see the sights, look up new restaurants to try or find unique hotels to stay. This recent trip to Hong Kong was different. We stayed for 6 days and 5 nights instead of the usual 3 days 2 nights. In preparation for this visit, I actually did tons of research on things to do with kids in Asia's most iconic metropolis.

A Kid Friendly Hotel
Hotel: We stayed at the Ovolo Hotel on Queens Road Central.
Location: The location of the hotel was perfect! Just a 3 minute walk from Sheung Wan metro station, and 15 minute walk to Central pier, where there is access to Ferry to Tsim Sha Tsui. Hollywood Road is one street behind the hotel with a great diversity of dinning options. There is a small playground a mere 2 minute walk behind the hotel. Walk up Ladder Street next to the hotel and there is Man Mo Temple for sightseeing.
Rooms: The rooms are extremely clean and new even by my picky standards. They are a bit on the small side even for Hong Kong standards but the amenities of the hotel more than make up for this tiny flaw.
Amenities/Facilities: Free breakfast every morning. My kids loved having breakfast here. The food is nothing fancy but prepared us for a day of sightseeing. Breakfast consists of: Bread/Croissant/Bagel/Cereal, cold meat and cheese, milk, Coffee, tea, yogurt and fruits.  There are snacks (cookies and fruits) and drinks (Juice, water, tea, coffee) at the lobby throughout the day for guests. There is a happy hour where there are cheeses, dips, bread/crackers, fruits, wine and various soft drinks. It was a great way to relax after a long day of sightseeing. An Ipad can be borrowed from the concierge through out the day to use in the lounge area. We made use of their ipad a lot because we didn't bring our own. My favorite amenity is the free use of the laundry room. We only brought 2 outfits each and for the first 2 days in HK the kids had minor stomach issues. The older one puked all over his clothes and the younger one had diarrhea, so I was immensely thankful for the use of the hotel's washer and dryer. There is also a gym on the same floor as the laundry room. I didn't make use of it because I was really tired from all the sightseeing. But it was a good place to hang out and read some magazines (They have Vogue and Cosmopolitan!) while waiting for the laundry. Free Mini bar with water and juice is a great take along for sightseeing on an insanely hot summer day in Hong Kong. The kids also loved the doggie bag that contained snacks and candies. 
Service: The staff was friendly and prompt. We were able to get our rooms cleaned up right away after my son puked on the floor. The room smelled fresh with no traces of any odor. Our family was extremely grateful for not having to sleep in a foul smelling room.
Knocked out!
Happy hour at Ovolo Hotel 

Museums
Law Uk Folk Museum: Law Uk or Law House is situated 5 minutes by foot from the Chai Wan Metro station. It was once part of a Hakka Village in the 18th century. In a city bombarded by skyscrapers, this centuries old village house is a rarity. The interior has been restored in detailed to show glimpses of the daily lives of the Hakka villagers. Admission is free and the garden next to the museum offers cool respite from the scorching summer heat.
Law Uk Folk Museum
Law Uk Folk Museum interior
Hong Kong Science Museum: This museum offered a few pleasant surprises upon entering. First, the museum opens until 9PM; a great way to enjoy a night out with kids. The entrance fee is very reasonable at only 25 HKD for adults, free for children under 4 or get a weekly pass for only 30 HKD. The museum offers free admission on Wednesdays. There is a wide range of exhibitions spanning 4 floors. This is a very hands on and interactive museum which gives young learners a chance to perform experiments. There is a play area for younger children on the top floor. It is a museum kids can spend a good part of the day in. We spent nearly 3 hours here and I literally had to drag my kid out when it was time to go.
Hong Kong Science Museum

Transportation
Hong Kong is like a giant open air transportation museum for kids! The city offers more modes of transportation than most cities in the world.  From electric trams to cable cars to double decker buses, getting from place to place is quite an entertaining activity for the family. It was hard to go on every single type of transportation due to our time constraint but we did try. By taking public transportation most of the time, we saved quite a bit of money as Taxis in Hong Kong are not very budget friendly. We took the double decker bus just like the open top tourist buses. Only the public bus is much cheaper. We hopped on a double decker bus at Tsim Sha Tsui pier and got off at stops that appealed to us.  It was a hassle free approach to taking in the sights without having to be constantly exposed to the summer heat.
Peak Tram to Victoria Peak
View of sunset on the Star Ferry
Electric Tram
Enjoying the view on a double decker bus
Ngong Ping Cable Car

Parks and Sights
Quarry Bay Park: Located off of the Tai Koo Metro Station, this park offers a tranquil sea view, children's playground and trails for running and hiking. But the highlight for kids is the Fireboat Alexander Grantham Exhibition Gallery. A retired fireboat turned exhibition is a treat for little boys. Exploring the interior of the boat give kids a chance to play fireman Sam. The gallery on the lower deck displayed paraphernalia of the ship through decades of service.
Fireboat Alexander Grantham Exhibition Gallery
Tsim Sha Tsui Promenade: Although not a park, the Tsim Sha Tsui promenade is a great place to take a stroll after dinner. For the ultimate tourist experience, watch the light show at 8PM on the promenade to take in Hong Kong's symbolic skyline.Visiting the promenade is something we do every time we visit Hong Kong. For some reason, we just can't get sick of this view.
Light Show at Tsim Sha Tsui Promenade
Victoria Peak
We took the peak tram up to Victoria peak for one simple reason: because the kids wanted to ride the tram. Not sure what to expect, we arrived to find that the peak offered two shopping malls, tons of dining and snacking options, the Madam Tussauds wax museum, and the best view of Hong Kong's skyline. Madam Tussauds looked promising. We would have went inside if the kids weren't so freaked out by the wax models of celebrities. The kids were not interested in shopping or the views but there were some open areas where kids can run around and expend some energy. The shopping was average, there are definitely better shopping malls in Central or Mongkok. But the sweeping panoramic views of Hong Kong island viewed from the peak surely did not disappoint.
View of Hong Kong Island from Victoria Peak

Day Trip
Lantau Island: A day trip to to the nearby island of Lantau have been made easy with the Ngong Ping 360 cable car. Exit the Tung Chung metro station and up an escalator took us to the ticket office for the cable car. Round trips to and from the island costs 125 HKD for adults and 68 HKD for children age 3 to 11. The 20 minute scenic ascent up to the island reveals breathtaking views of Hong Kong's natural beauty. Although it is quite touristy once you arrive at the cable car terminal on Lantau island, but the Po Lin Monastery and the giant Buddha is still worth exploring.  
Giant Buddha in Po Lin Monastery

Dinning
Hong Kong is a gourmet paradise. Food ranges from hole in the wall cafes/tea houses to world renowned Michelin star restaurants. There is something for every budget and palate. There is no shortage of dining options even late into the night.
Restaurants of Note: The Press Room serves up delicious and delicately prepared French food in a fine dining setting with reasonable prices. Ordering off of the set dinner menu offers great value for the money meals at 280HKD. However, no trip to Hong Kong is complete without splurging (monetary and caloric wise) on some dim sum. Restaurants such as the Liu Yuan Pavilion is where locals like to spend Sunday mornings catching up with friends and family. I've also been told by several Hong Kong relatives of mine that this dim sum restaurant has excellent sanitary standards. They called this restaurant Liu Yuan Pavilion for a reason. This restaurant is huge!!! The place is packed on the weekends. Hong Kong residents sure like their Dim sum. Luckily my relatives made a reservation days ahead.
Crab Cake at The Press Room

Convenience
Hong Kong is a city where we can really travel light, even with kids. Clothing, baby food, diapers, medicine, bottled water etc. is easily accessible. Drug stores are abundant and some even have pharmacist on sight for consultation. Drug store chains like Watsons and Manning can be spotted on nearly every other block.  

Summary
My kids (age 3 and 1) had a wonderful time in Hong Kong. They have been real troopers throughout this trip. Not once did they complain of the noisy traffic, the crowds, the stifling summer heat, or the stomach flu they suffered from for the first 2 days of our trip. The kids and I really bonded during this trip. It also made me realize that although we've spent nearly all of our waking hours together, we've never really spent much quality time together. Staying at a hotel saved me time on cleaning, eating at restaurants saved me tons of time on cooking; which allowed me to spend much needed quality time with the kids. It was wonderful to watch them play and immerse in the sounds of their laughter. Not being on the brink of mommy burnout allowed me the patience to be the mother I strive to be. On this trip the kids were finally able to catch glimpses of the fun loving side of their mommy.
Victoria Peak








9/28/2012

Nostalgic Hong Kong


As soon as I step outside of the Hong Kong airport, I was engulfed by the aroma of Hong Kong. Hong Kong; literally translates to Fragrant Harbor, has a scent that beckons even the most introverted soul. The metropolitan madness of Central emits intoxicating fumes of diesel, cigarette smoke, cologne and the ocean. As disgusting as it may sound, it's actually not. The combination of these smells manifests itself into a strong presence of possibilities. Endless dreams of making big bucks, or of owning an apartment overlooking Tsim Sha Tsui lingers in the smells of freshly pressed suits of the office workers, the second hand smoke of over stressed hedge fund managers, the cologne of foreign CEO's. The smell of salt is carried by a breeze like a promise of properity as infinite as the ocean. Standing amidst these people made me wonder: "Is this anything like the Hong Kong Dad arrived to some 25 years ago?" Standing on the central pier, I conjured up an image of a time, way back when my dad was walking among these urban creatures with a cigarette in hand, all decked out in custom suits made from the finest Italian wool. I wondered if he too was enticed by the scents of big dreams and possibilities.     

The air in residential areas however, is drastically different. Colonies of densely populated buildings almost always contain traces of incense, Cantonese stir fry and laundry. In other words, it smells like mama's cooking, laundry hanging on the balcony to dry and puzzling traces of incense smoke. There is a kinship derived from the combination of these scents. It's the scent of families, neighbors, communities. Mrs. Chen asks her neighbor Mrs. Lam for the recipe of her famous chicken soup. Miss Cheung catches the eye of Mr. Kong while hanging up the laundry and smiles shyly in greeting. The Choi family is burning incense for an anniversary of an ancestor's passing. The aroma of thousands of residents within the community conjures up a rather festive ambiance each and every evening. To many Hong Kong natives, this is what home smells like. These aromas are like an anti anxiety fix to the working men and women coming home at the end of the day, and it is a daily reminder of the importance of kinship and traditional values for the children.

My latest trip to Hong Kong however, proved to be a disappointing one. I don't know if it's China's changing policy on Hong Kong or the explosion of Chinese tourists treating Hong Kong like a wholesale market by showing up with huge empty suit cases and raiding all the malls and luxury brand stores, or maybe it's both that just completely altered the atmosphere. The nostalgia I had hoped to catch glimpses of has nearly disappeared. I desperately searched for glimpses of the Hong Kong of my childhood and hoped to capture any remaining traces of this city's colonial heritage.

View from Victoria Peak

Law Uk Folk Museum

HK Science Museum

Tsim Sha Tsui Pier

Ferry docking on Tsim Sha Tsui Pier

View from Central Pier

Taken on the Ferry towards Central Pier

On Ferry

Electric Tram in Sheung Wan

Fire boat on Quarry Bay


7/27/2012

Taipei: Love It! Hate It! Love It!

I have a love/hate relationship with Taipei. I really do. This city and its people puzzles me, excites me, inspires me, frustrates me, challenges me...Below is a list of things I love and hate about Taipei that shows my struggles in making peace with the city.

Walk-ability (Love it!): Taipei is a very walkable city for two reasons: I feel safe walking on most of the streets in Taipei at any time of the day and there are lots of opportunities to window shop while getting from point A to point B. Walking anywhere in Taipei is never boring.


Pollution (Hate it!): The smog, second hand smoke and carbon dioxide emitted by 2 million people can be a bit suffocating; especially during the stifling summer heat. Everywhere I go, I can't help but notice the smell of diesel. The only way to get some semi fresh air is to get out of the city. 

Eating (Love it!): Taipei is gastronomical heaven! Street food is abundant at anytime of the day. There is also a diverse collection of exotic cuisine for any budget. But the ever changing choices of fine dinning is what I live for. Fresh ingredients paired with exceptional culinary artistry with prices set at only half of that in Europe, it is a luxury I've learned to splurge on. 

Endless lines (Hate it!): There is something popping up in Taipei every week. A new restaurant, bar, clothing store. The trends come and go so quickly. One thing for certain that does not go out of style is...the endless lines. Everywhere you go, you see lines. If there is a new restaurant you want to check out, think again, because so does the rest of Taipei's population. My worst nightmare: getting a table for Sunday brunch and ice monster during the summer.


Long Summers (Love it!): This one may be more subjective because I personally love summer. I love extended hours of daylight, I love the bright colors this city possesses in the summer, I even love the choking heat at the height of summer because it makes being in an air conditioned room much more delectable. Most of all, I love being able to walk around in shorts and a t-shirt 9 months out of the year. I also take advantage of summer sales that usually occur in July and August. Since Taipei summers last until at least the end of November, which means I don't have to wait a whole year to wear my new purchases.

Humidity (Hate it!): Am I melting? The 90 percent humidity plus high temperature in the summer will have you feeling like a block of melting ice.  However, in the winter months, the lack of sunshine in combination with the high humidity imposes a health hazard. MOLD! Humidity harbors mold to grow and food to perish at an accelerated rate. Which means endless cleaning and scrubbing. It's not rare to see a layer of mold on a piece of furniture that has not been used or cleaned for a mere couple of days.  

Night life (Love it!):  There is a versatile selection of nocturnal haunts to frequent in Taipei. The Night markets are popular for locals and tourists alike. There are pubs and bars that stay open until 5-6AM, 24hr eateries are posted all over Taipei, 24hr tea shops, karaokes, and Eslite (xinyi) has a 24hr book store. With such a vibrant night life, sleeping seems overrated.


Mosquitoes (Hate it!): I can't say that Taipei is mosquito infested, because it's really not that bad. But during the spring and early summer, those little leeches can do some damage. Especially for me whose allergic reaction to mosquitoes include swollen limbs. I've tried several mosquito repellents and some have worked fairly well but I absolutely hate the smell.

Leisure activities and events (Love it!): Taipei is like an energizer bunny that never runs out of battery. No matter what time of the day it is, you'll never lack for something to do. There are countless studios offering dance, yoga, and singing classes at very affordable prices with many sessions to choose from. Famous event venues like Songshan Cultural and Creative Park or Chiang Kai Shek Memorial Hall have events going on nearly every day of the week. The only downside: so much to do but not enough time to do it. 

Rain (Hate it!): From November and December 2011 there were less than 20 hours of sunshine. Outside of those 20 precious hours of sun, Taipei was smothered by a constant depressing drizzle for what seemed like a coup d'etat by the dark forces. It's depressing just to think about.   

Public transportation (Love it!): I love living in a city where there is no need to own a car or drive one. Even better that I will never find myself having to squeeze a mid size sedan into a compact parking space. Public transportation is cheap and easy to use in Taipei. It will get you to anywhere you want to go. Taxis are also easily accessible. You can flag one down and the driver will stop pretty much regardless of where you're standing.


Expensive housing (Hate it!): Every inch of land is gold in Taipei's city center. Apartment rentals and sale prices are nearly 5 times of that in other parts of Taiwan. If you're the type that dreams of a house with a beautiful garden, you can forget about living in Taipei. Individual houses are for the filthy rich and powerful. The rest of us normal middle class folks live in apartment buildings. But with real estate price hikes and a sluggish economy in the recent years, even tiny apartments no where near a metro station is not easily affordable.

Afternoon tea (Love it!): Whether you opt for an opulent afternoon at a 5 star hotel or just a quick snack off the street vendors, Taipei will not disappoint when the clock hits 3:15PM. Unlike most people who cannot venture out in public alone without a book, I delight at the chance to have afternoon tea by myself. On a day I can get away from the kids for a while, I head to my favorite afternoon jaunt in Bellavita's A3 to drown myself in coffee and stuff my tummy with delicately made mini sandwiches and decadent pastries.

What do you love or hate about Taipei?

7/16/2012

10 Things I Wish My Kids Would Know

Evenings in my house feels like a carnival. There are kids running around, toys are thrown everywhere, the aroma of some kind of stir fry radiating from the kitchen, kids crying, kids screaming, the phone ringing, music playing... The atmosphere is chaotic, frenetic, whimsical. But there is an important lesson that can be learned here: don't cry over spilled milk. There really is no time for that. 5PM-9PM reminds me of the trading floor on Wall Street. There is no time to stop and think, just do. Then 9PM hits and the kids are in bed and peace is restored in the household. That's when I walk around the house and appraise the damage. At that point, my house resembles the crime scene of a robbery. If there is a CSI:Taiwan, it should definitely be filmed in my house.

I'm not complaining because being a mom is still incredibly fulfilling. More fulfilling than any job I've ever had. (And I've had a lot of jobs.) But during those few rare moments of idleness, I can't help but wonder if my kids can distinguish between the sensible person that I am and the screaming, hair pulling, crazy women they encounter every evening. while they're still so young, there is no way to get them to understand the havoc they put me through everyday, but hopefully in time they will see my plight and realize the following:

6/30/2012

Beating Jet Lag in Taipei

The hardest part about traveling is having to reset your biological clock every time you change time zones. Getting over jet lag can be tiring and such a hassle. After coming back to Taipei after many trips, I find that this city makes the transition rather easy and pleasant.

Arriving in the morning
Upon arriving at a destination after a long international flight, there is nothing more enticing than to have a long shower and a big breakfast. When arriving in the morning, most often hotels are not ready for check in. But you can store your luggage at the hotel and head out to one of the hot springs around Taipei to get that much needed shower and pampering. There are plenty of conveniently located hot spring resorts around Taipei where you can get a private room for a couple of hours at a very reasonable price. If you're not shy about mingling with locals and tourists in the nude, there are also public hot spring pools for as little as 200-500NT and you can stay as long as you like. You can soak away all the fatigue and stiffness from a long flight, and if budget allows, foot or body massages is available in many hot spring resorts. After a much needed shower and relaxation, delicious meals can be had within the resorts. And if you're on a tight budget, there are always snacks and meals to be bought in local convenience stores surrounding the hot springs.

6/27/2012

Taipei With Kids

Taipei, at first glance, is just another densely populated metropolis in Asia; not exactly a place for a family vacation. Especially true where metropolitan areas are now taken over by DINK couples (Dual Income with No Kids), the need to cater to children and babies is even less of a priority. Is Taipei following this trend where it gets increasingly difficult to travel with kids in a metropolitan city? Having lived in or near Taipei for over 5 years and having had 2 kids later, I feel that it's only fair to take a closer look at how child friendly this city really is. This is what I conclude after careful reflection of my experience in this city: TAIPEI MORE THAN QUALIFY AS A KID FRIENDLY CITY. Here is why: