9/28/2012

Nostalgic Hong Kong


As soon as I step outside of the Hong Kong airport, I was engulfed by the aroma of Hong Kong. Hong Kong; literally translates to Fragrant Harbor, has a scent that beckons even the most introverted soul. The metropolitan madness of Central emits intoxicating fumes of diesel, cigarette smoke, cologne and the ocean. As disgusting as it may sound, it's actually not. The combination of these smells manifests itself into a strong presence of possibilities. Endless dreams of making big bucks, or of owning an apartment overlooking Tsim Sha Tsui lingers in the smells of freshly pressed suits of the office workers, the second hand smoke of over stressed hedge fund managers, the cologne of foreign CEO's. The smell of salt is carried by a breeze like a promise of properity as infinite as the ocean. Standing amidst these people made me wonder: "Is this anything like the Hong Kong Dad arrived to some 25 years ago?" Standing on the central pier, I conjured up an image of a time, way back when my dad was walking among these urban creatures with a cigarette in hand, all decked out in custom suits made from the finest Italian wool. I wondered if he too was enticed by the scents of big dreams and possibilities.     

The air in residential areas however, is drastically different. Colonies of densely populated buildings almost always contain traces of incense, Cantonese stir fry and laundry. In other words, it smells like mama's cooking, laundry hanging on the balcony to dry and puzzling traces of incense smoke. There is a kinship derived from the combination of these scents. It's the scent of families, neighbors, communities. Mrs. Chen asks her neighbor Mrs. Lam for the recipe of her famous chicken soup. Miss Cheung catches the eye of Mr. Kong while hanging up the laundry and smiles shyly in greeting. The Choi family is burning incense for an anniversary of an ancestor's passing. The aroma of thousands of residents within the community conjures up a rather festive ambiance each and every evening. To many Hong Kong natives, this is what home smells like. These aromas are like an anti anxiety fix to the working men and women coming home at the end of the day, and it is a daily reminder of the importance of kinship and traditional values for the children.

My latest trip to Hong Kong however, proved to be a disappointing one. I don't know if it's China's changing policy on Hong Kong or the explosion of Chinese tourists treating Hong Kong like a wholesale market by showing up with huge empty suit cases and raiding all the malls and luxury brand stores, or maybe it's both that just completely altered the atmosphere. The nostalgia I had hoped to catch glimpses of has nearly disappeared. I desperately searched for glimpses of the Hong Kong of my childhood and hoped to capture any remaining traces of this city's colonial heritage.

View from Victoria Peak

Law Uk Folk Museum

HK Science Museum

Tsim Sha Tsui Pier

Ferry docking on Tsim Sha Tsui Pier

View from Central Pier

Taken on the Ferry towards Central Pier

On Ferry

Electric Tram in Sheung Wan

Fire boat on Quarry Bay


7/27/2012

Taipei: Love It! Hate It! Love It!

I have a love/hate relationship with Taipei. I really do. This city and its people puzzles me, excites me, inspires me, frustrates me, challenges me...Below is a list of things I love and hate about Taipei that shows my struggles in making peace with the city.

Walk-ability (Love it!): Taipei is a very walkable city for two reasons: I feel safe walking on most of the streets in Taipei at any time of the day and there are lots of opportunities to window shop while getting from point A to point B. Walking anywhere in Taipei is never boring.


Pollution (Hate it!): The smog, second hand smoke and carbon dioxide emitted by 2 million people can be a bit suffocating; especially during the stifling summer heat. Everywhere I go, I can't help but notice the smell of diesel. The only way to get some semi fresh air is to get out of the city. 

Eating (Love it!): Taipei is gastronomical heaven! Street food is abundant at anytime of the day. There is also a diverse collection of exotic cuisine for any budget. But the ever changing choices of fine dinning is what I live for. Fresh ingredients paired with exceptional culinary artistry with prices set at only half of that in Europe, it is a luxury I've learned to splurge on. 

Endless lines (Hate it!): There is something popping up in Taipei every week. A new restaurant, bar, clothing store. The trends come and go so quickly. One thing for certain that does not go out of style is...the endless lines. Everywhere you go, you see lines. If there is a new restaurant you want to check out, think again, because so does the rest of Taipei's population. My worst nightmare: getting a table for Sunday brunch and ice monster during the summer.


Long Summers (Love it!): This one may be more subjective because I personally love summer. I love extended hours of daylight, I love the bright colors this city possesses in the summer, I even love the choking heat at the height of summer because it makes being in an air conditioned room much more delectable. Most of all, I love being able to walk around in shorts and a t-shirt 9 months out of the year. I also take advantage of summer sales that usually occur in July and August. Since Taipei summers last until at least the end of November, which means I don't have to wait a whole year to wear my new purchases.

Humidity (Hate it!): Am I melting? The 90 percent humidity plus high temperature in the summer will have you feeling like a block of melting ice.  However, in the winter months, the lack of sunshine in combination with the high humidity imposes a health hazard. MOLD! Humidity harbors mold to grow and food to perish at an accelerated rate. Which means endless cleaning and scrubbing. It's not rare to see a layer of mold on a piece of furniture that has not been used or cleaned for a mere couple of days.  

Night life (Love it!):  There is a versatile selection of nocturnal haunts to frequent in Taipei. The Night markets are popular for locals and tourists alike. There are pubs and bars that stay open until 5-6AM, 24hr eateries are posted all over Taipei, 24hr tea shops, karaokes, and Eslite (xinyi) has a 24hr book store. With such a vibrant night life, sleeping seems overrated.


Mosquitoes (Hate it!): I can't say that Taipei is mosquito infested, because it's really not that bad. But during the spring and early summer, those little leeches can do some damage. Especially for me whose allergic reaction to mosquitoes include swollen limbs. I've tried several mosquito repellents and some have worked fairly well but I absolutely hate the smell.

Leisure activities and events (Love it!): Taipei is like an energizer bunny that never runs out of battery. No matter what time of the day it is, you'll never lack for something to do. There are countless studios offering dance, yoga, and singing classes at very affordable prices with many sessions to choose from. Famous event venues like Songshan Cultural and Creative Park or Chiang Kai Shek Memorial Hall have events going on nearly every day of the week. The only downside: so much to do but not enough time to do it. 

Rain (Hate it!): From November and December 2011 there were less than 20 hours of sunshine. Outside of those 20 precious hours of sun, Taipei was smothered by a constant depressing drizzle for what seemed like a coup d'etat by the dark forces. It's depressing just to think about.   

Public transportation (Love it!): I love living in a city where there is no need to own a car or drive one. Even better that I will never find myself having to squeeze a mid size sedan into a compact parking space. Public transportation is cheap and easy to use in Taipei. It will get you to anywhere you want to go. Taxis are also easily accessible. You can flag one down and the driver will stop pretty much regardless of where you're standing.


Expensive housing (Hate it!): Every inch of land is gold in Taipei's city center. Apartment rentals and sale prices are nearly 5 times of that in other parts of Taiwan. If you're the type that dreams of a house with a beautiful garden, you can forget about living in Taipei. Individual houses are for the filthy rich and powerful. The rest of us normal middle class folks live in apartment buildings. But with real estate price hikes and a sluggish economy in the recent years, even tiny apartments no where near a metro station is not easily affordable.

Afternoon tea (Love it!): Whether you opt for an opulent afternoon at a 5 star hotel or just a quick snack off the street vendors, Taipei will not disappoint when the clock hits 3:15PM. Unlike most people who cannot venture out in public alone without a book, I delight at the chance to have afternoon tea by myself. On a day I can get away from the kids for a while, I head to my favorite afternoon jaunt in Bellavita's A3 to drown myself in coffee and stuff my tummy with delicately made mini sandwiches and decadent pastries.

What do you love or hate about Taipei?

7/16/2012

10 Things I Wish My Kids Would Know

Evenings in my house feels like a carnival. There are kids running around, toys are thrown everywhere, the aroma of some kind of stir fry radiating from the kitchen, kids crying, kids screaming, the phone ringing, music playing... The atmosphere is chaotic, frenetic, whimsical. But there is an important lesson that can be learned here: don't cry over spilled milk. There really is no time for that. 5PM-9PM reminds me of the trading floor on Wall Street. There is no time to stop and think, just do. Then 9PM hits and the kids are in bed and peace is restored in the household. That's when I walk around the house and appraise the damage. At that point, my house resembles the crime scene of a robbery. If there is a CSI:Taiwan, it should definitely be filmed in my house.

I'm not complaining because being a mom is still incredibly fulfilling. More fulfilling than any job I've ever had. (And I've had a lot of jobs.) But during those few rare moments of idleness, I can't help but wonder if my kids can distinguish between the sensible person that I am and the screaming, hair pulling, crazy women they encounter every evening. while they're still so young, there is no way to get them to understand the havoc they put me through everyday, but hopefully in time they will see my plight and realize the following:

6/30/2012

Beating Jet Lag in Taipei

The hardest part about traveling is having to reset your biological clock every time you change time zones. Getting over jet lag can be tiring and such a hassle. After coming back to Taipei after many trips, I find that this city makes the transition rather easy and pleasant.

Arriving in the morning
Upon arriving at a destination after a long international flight, there is nothing more enticing than to have a long shower and a big breakfast. When arriving in the morning, most often hotels are not ready for check in. But you can store your luggage at the hotel and head out to one of the hot springs around Taipei to get that much needed shower and pampering. There are plenty of conveniently located hot spring resorts around Taipei where you can get a private room for a couple of hours at a very reasonable price. If you're not shy about mingling with locals and tourists in the nude, there are also public hot spring pools for as little as 200-500NT and you can stay as long as you like. You can soak away all the fatigue and stiffness from a long flight, and if budget allows, foot or body massages is available in many hot spring resorts. After a much needed shower and relaxation, delicious meals can be had within the resorts. And if you're on a tight budget, there are always snacks and meals to be bought in local convenience stores surrounding the hot springs.

6/27/2012

Taipei With Kids

Taipei, at first glance, is just another densely populated metropolis in Asia; not exactly a place for a family vacation. Especially true where metropolitan areas are now taken over by DINK couples (Dual Income with No Kids), the need to cater to children and babies is even less of a priority. Is Taipei following this trend where it gets increasingly difficult to travel with kids in a metropolitan city? Having lived in or near Taipei for over 5 years and having had 2 kids later, I feel that it's only fair to take a closer look at how child friendly this city really is. This is what I conclude after careful reflection of my experience in this city: TAIPEI MORE THAN QUALIFY AS A KID FRIENDLY CITY. Here is why:

5/22/2012

Macao with Kids

Grand Lisboa Hotel
Macao, termed the Las Vegas of the East, is the last place anyone would think to take their kids to. Some 20 years ago, no one would even consider taking their kids with them when they go to Macau.  It was definitely frowned upon. The city pooled with casinos, strip clubs, bars and luxury international hotel and resort chains, has always been a popular destination for bachelor/bachlorette parties. But times are changing. The city once filled with adult entertainment, gangs and prostitutes are now widely advertised for its cultural heritage sites, eclectic museums, and Michelin starred restaurants. In addition, the era of leaving your kids with the Grandma while Daddy and Mommy go out and play is slowly fading. The present trend of attachment parenting has slowly transformed even "adults only" destinations like Macau into a family friendly destination.

5/17/2012

Lake Bled in the Middle of Winter

The bus dropped us off in a place that seems like the middle of a residential neighborhood. Fortunately, the tourist information is only a few steps away. As a fanatic of castles, I immediately asked the girl sitting behind the counter at the tourist information office how to get up to the castle that is literally hanging on the side of a cliff. She advised us that there is a route for cars and it would be way too far for us to walk. Then she suggested an alternative. And what an alternative it was! We literally climbed up the castle on our hands and feet on slippery ice and knee deep snow. On the way down, we took the car route and realized that it does not take long at all! Not to mention it was an easy stroll back down. If I had any energy left from that earlier climb, I would've charged back to that tourist information office and let the clerk have a piece of my mind.
The climb up to the castle